Havania

Returned to Lito after a last walk into Ag Nik. and crashed out. Woke up later in the afternoon feeling a bit dodgy but after 1/2 an hour felt well enough to go for a final snorkel. Yas stayed to loll around and enjoy the air-conditioning. I went down to Havania beach and put in along the beach and swam to the cliffs past a pontoon and several beaches. Not much to see on the bottom 50-100m out. Very little reefy stuff, saw a few anchors and bits of pipe.

A little further out speedboats towed inflatables up and down. One of them threw everyone off. I was very glad to have blob (it's essential on swims that involve a crossing or anywhere near watersport areas), and was pleased there were a few pedal boats too in my vicinity before the speed boats. Without the blob I would have had to hug the coast a bit more. Where I snorkelled, the swell from boats was a bit annoying, but not too bad.

I arrived at the cliffs and rocks, and begun to see some the wildlife. I took some pictures and found a good place to feed the fish. I saw the usual wrasse, bream, blennies, gobies, and parrotfish. Releasing a little bread around a rock with a nice hole (like I did the other day), I got some fair pictures.

On the way back, the return took me about 30-40 minutes, there was a bit of floating litter and I picked up a few plastic bags. I found my clothes on the beach, my lime green goody bag helped, and walked up the hill for the last time; my arm was extremely sore from yesterdays stinging and my ankles ached, but it didn't spoil my enjoyment of the warmth and the lovely views.

Mochlos Island / Plaka

Thought we'd visit Mochlos today and took the main road east around Mirabello bay and turned off to follow the windy road down to the sleepy seaside village. There are some tavernas at the water's edge by the tiny harbour, and near the parking there were archaeological excavations going on that you're not allowed to wee on (there was a sign to say so).

Mochlos Island was directly opposite, and the excavated Minoan houses visible from the mainland. It didn't look good for snorkelling at first, but later the wind dropped a bit and conditions improved.

We walked back to get my kit and I returned to the slipway and went in here. I had a quick look at the fish tank (it was easy to find and had been visible from the road down to the village) then swam across to the island. I'd read that there are strong currents here to be wary of, but there was none. I could see no sign current looking at the boats, moorings, or the surface of the water; underwater there were no streaming particles or trailing weed. I used the blob, a good idea for a crossing, and there were speedboats and jet skis moored and on the slipway and a few fishing boats pootling about. Swimming over, the bottom was uninteresting and all I saw where anchors and ropes and chains.

A few people swam to the island, and a group on sit-on kayaks clattering about, stopped for a while. I landed and had a look round, walked up the hill and took a few pictures. It was very hot, and I was glad to get back in the water. I swam around the island a bit; perhaps I should have tried to go round, but didn't want to be too long. I crossed back over the shallower water to the west slightly and went over some slabby reefy bits, perhaps it was the sunken causeway? Found Yas and sorted kit and decided on a taverna. We had a fantastic (and cheap) meal, in the sun, at the waters edge.

We were both glad we stayed at Mochlos. On the way back, along the north facing coast, it was much choppier; so some of the other places that looked promising weren't suitable. Another sheltered bay at Istron we fancied turned out to be private and off limits, and didn't at that want to stop at the busier municipal beaches. We drove through Elounda (getting lost a bit then following our noses down to the road and out to Plaka). There was a lot of holiday traffic and bikes etc,.. and we were pleased to arrive, though rather displeased with the naughty French boy lobbing stones about next to where we parked, into someone's back yard, and whacking our car.

Plaka's a relatively peaceful place, with a good sheltered pebble and sand beach, and some tavernas (we'd been there earlier and caught a boat to Spinalonga). I swam to rocks at the northern side of the bay and it was far better than I was expecting. There was good amount of fish and lots yellow anenomes, like at Kato Zakros.

I found some good places to feed the fish, and saw various animals I hadn't seen before. There were bulky warty crabs lodged in a crevice, and another sort amongst the stones, with long thin tarantuala-like legs (with yellow bits). In another hole I found a big blobby creature (10"-12" long) with a soft wrinkly body, light brown with black rings which turned a very large sea slug. I enjoyed all this and a nice long swim, and everything was grand, except however for the extremely painful anenome stings and accompanying blistery swellings on my arm. Perhaps I should have worn the rash vest.

Havania

I'd been thinking about doing a night snorkel for some time and was usually way too tired, but managed it one early morning. I had woken up at about 3am, and couldn't get back to sleep because the toothbrush recharger was flashing (I 'suppose' I could have unplugged it). Anyway it occurred to me that it would be a good time for a swim, so I put on my boots and rash vest and the camera, torch, and knife went in the goody bag. I quietly left the hotel and headed down to the beach. At the top of the driveway I could see another night snorkeller or diver further out in the bay.

It felt a bit strange at first, and I was glad that I'd swum around here before and knew what to expect. There were lights on the shore and navigation wasn't going to be a problem. Visibility was good and my backup dive torch perfect for this sort of thing. The first fish I saw were small silver fish hanging, here and there, just below the surface. Then, very near me I noticed a needlefish. I swam on around the headland and, and on the rocks there were occasional sea cucumbers (cotton spinners). These ones were a bit different, brown and spiny (they were a bit like our nearly black ones) and had fairly evenly spaced white spots about some of the spines. I carried on, and very soon I found a moray (or 'the' moray, as it could have been the same one I saw last week).

Swimming around there were more of the small silver fish, then as it started to get light I saw others. A school of grey mullet in bit of feeding frenzy over some rocks in the shallows, saddled bream, decorated wrasse, more needlefish, and lots of blennies; perhaps some of these had been there all along.

I took a few pictures and on the way back and had a look in some of the hollows, where I found a nice red fan worm, and there were some nice plants. After a while I felt a bit cool. It wasn't cold but I was glad to have the rash vest, which during the day kept the sun off my back and saved me getting burnt. There was of course a wonderful sunrise, and a few early people arriving at the beach - the best time of day. I spoke to a few people as I cleaned off, and a friendly local suggested bread to attract lots of fish. It was a great swim and I was very pleased.

Crete Aquarium

Back and forth on the main road we'd seen the signs for Crete Aquarium, so after a stop at Malia palace, we went. It was on the site of an old air station. It was good size, we spent a few hours there, had a good variety of fish and marine invertebrates, and had some fairly big tanks. We paid €8 each and got the audio guide. There's labels to get the fish names in different languages. There were some tropical fish, but what I liked most was that the great majority were Mediterranean.

Though it got very crowded, it wasn't as noisy and uncomfortable as our last trip to the Plymouth Marine Aquarium - oh, that was just bad timing and French schoolkids (even their teacher had had enough and had to duck out for a gitane), and - here we go - kids manically running up and down shouting NEMO! Well I 'suppose' they're having fun and learning and all that,.. perhaps. Anyway, I didn't hear the 'N' word and once and in the intervals between the big groups it was quite nice. There was a film about a turtle that got saved after swallowing fishing gear (including a hook), and plastic bags; and various other displays. We got some reasonable pictures of the slower moving animals, and around some of the bigger tanks you can just sit and watch the fish.

Vai / Kato Zakros

A really early start for the trip to the east. We made it to Sitia and decided to go to Vai first (then down to Kato Zakros) and followed a long windy road via Palekastro. Vai was empty when we arrived and we had a quick look round before deciding to stay. Parking was a reasonable €4 for the day.

Kitted up by the rocks and snorkelled round to the south. There was a strong northerly breeze across water but happily it wasn't too choppy. Again, very sparse plant life, but found Vai very good for the fish, and saw a small grouper under rock ledge. I took a few pictures, mainly snaps of fish because there were plenty in the shallows and it was nice and light. I was back on the beach as a trio of spearfishers arrived and were making preparations to go in; Yas and I then went up to the top of the headland for view.

It was starting to get busy. There were some greek families on the beach and other sun-bathers arriving; and an incredibly loud Italian show off, yelling, posing, and bossing Nicole about. Itanos wasn't far away and I'd read some good things about the place. Nice scenery along the coast and some quieter bays nearby, we walked about looking at the ruins. Was a great place to swim - regretfully I didn't go in here (I'd only just swum at Vai and it was a bit windy).

Inland it is extremely arid and the creaky information board and shelter, and spindly and spiny plants gave it a deserty wild-west feel. Leaving Itanos we travelled south though wild scenery and along fairly bendy roads south to Zakros and on to Kato Zakros.

Decided first to see the Minoan palace (it was extremely hot, 40°C+) then to cool off. Yas liked the terrapins in the pools there. I had a short swim, then decided to get the rest of my kit and camera and see what the cliffs were like. It was much more varied than I expected and the plant life was quite colourful and there were lots of yellow snakelock anenomes, as well as the usual fish etc. I could have swum here for a lot longer. When I got out I realised I'd been stung and had on my shin a patch of dense wavy red lines. Anenomes possibly - though I was pretty sure I didn't go over anenomes - or a bunch of jellyfish tentacles.

Matala

Took the car via Heraklion to Gortys, Phaestos, Hagia Triada, and finally to Matala. It was Sunday so, as we should have expected, it was particularly busy. Anyway for a cool off and quick swim round it was ok. The sand was really really hot and its a good idea to use the boardwalks that run across the beach. Yas discovered that her Croc shoes - a sort of lightweight plastic clog with holes - were good at trapping the burning sand and hurting her feet. My wet wet-suit boots were supremely comfortable however.

Anyway I found her a shady spot near the caves to have a rest and off I went. Further around the headland- it was good to be away from all the beach noise- I found some sponges and a very deep red starfish lodged in a hole. I did a few dives over a ledge near the headland and there masses of those were lots of those brown/black fish with the forked tail fins just hanging about. There was a bit of swell here, but nothing horrible, and I arrived at some big rocks and a nice deep section with a cave, that could have been interesting to explore. There was some bloke spearfishing here, and saw him dive before I started back.

Underwater it had been like Ferma to begin with - very few plants. But although it was early afternoon and despite all the people there were lots of fish about. There were salp, gobies, shanny, and a clutch of decorated wrasse feeding on some broken urchins; the wrasse shortly joined by a tompot blenny. I think there were needlefish too.

Not much else to say about Matala, it's a very popular beach in the summer but is also a nesting site for turtles and their protection society has a kiosk here. It's famous too for the Roman burial chambers cut into the rock that were used by the hippies.

Ferma

Our first day with the car, we decided to head for Ierapetra and decide there what to do next. We had a very quick look round, then carried on to place called Ferma that where it was indicated there were 'Ancient Fish Tanks'. This sounded good so we thought we'd go and see. U-turned to get on the road down to the site we missed and found quite a nice beach. It was hot too and naturally I quite fancied a snorkel.

The beach for paddling about on was nice and sandy, less interesting for snorkelling however, but there were numerous gobies and small flatfish. The rocks around the headland had looked more promising from a distance but these to me seemed very bare, having only a very thin encrusting layer and sparse small plants. There was a little more to see in the sheltered nooks and beneath overhangs. On the way out I saw small school of young needlefish and the usual bream and painted wrasse. I swam around and had a look around some extremely large boulders just off the headland and came back. On the way, either side of a wrecked motorbike were a couple of huge garfish (1m). They were still for a short while then I blinked and they were gone.

Feeling better for the swim I sorted out the kit and we decided to look over the other side of the headland for the fish tanks - where the map symbol actually was. I was very curious and we'd come along way so it would have been a shame not too have seen them. Drawing a blank I asked some friendly ladies at a beach taverna where the 'old fish boxes' where (I didn't at that point know the Greek for 'archaic fish tanks'. One knew what I was on about and and directed us over some orchard to the rocky promontory, and from some higher rocks I saw it. Right at the low cliff's edge carved out of the rock is a large rectangular recess (15ft lengthways perhaps) with steps cut into the side. Somehow I'd missed it on my swim, but discovered it is actually possible to snorkel into it.

Spinalonga Island

We got the bus through Elounda to Plaka at the end of the road, then caught a boat straight across to Spinalonga. Arriving early we were able to have relaxed look round before the island's narrow paths got too crowded. We walked over the island and I was able to see what it was like all around before going in the water and arrived back at the 'main gate' which seemed a good place to start. There was bit of a breeze - but not too bad - worse was the swash when the larger boats - frequently - chugged by. So for this reason alone it's better to swim early or late.

I'd been looking forward to swimming here for a long time, and wasn't disappointed. I found a good lot of sponges and other encrusting life around the more exposed parts particularly and in some holes. There was a small cave (where I scratched my head a bit) with a large fan worm and red fish with black head - a lesser black faced blenny. Saw lots of other blennies and gobies, more red starfish, grey sea slugs and lots of black sea urchins - some of their spines ending up in my fingers, and picked up a few empty cowrie shells. I went about half-way round and returned to the main-gate.

Various man-made stuff included a modern fishing reel (but was very rubbishy one and broken). And a few relics - perhaps from the leper colony - old bed frame and some broken corroded blue (metal) bowls in the shallows amongst the rubble. Yas had a pleasant stop in the shade, paddling and between the groups enjoying the view and the peace. Got our little boat back to Plaka and ate at one of the beach-front tavernas before catching the bus back home.

Spinalonga Peninsula / Agioi Pantes Island

Dive site 'Explosion #1' on the southeast tip of the Spinalonga Peninsula - a short ride on the rib from the Mirabello and dive outfit Crete Underwater Centre.

Took my own basic kit and hired everything scuba, and suit (long sleeved shorty). Had a 15l tank and used 6kg of lead which was fine. It was to be my first open water diving using a BC instead of a drysuit. Buddy was called Steve. Already hot I was glad I had my hat and some water. Arriving at the site the boat was moored next to another near a large open cave below some cliffs. Checked my gear, listened to the dive brief, checked what signals used and in we all went. The dive was great. Visibility fantastic. Not many plants but was pleased to recognise the fish I'd seen snorkelling, wrasse, bream, combers, parrotfish, small blue fish, fireworms, sponges etc,.. Scattered around the dive site were shells, and shell cases and bits of metal. Good dive route took us over some rocky ground 5-7 metres below the RIB the out over a ledge and along a slope which became more wall like further along. Returned along same route but shallower for decompression.

A nice surface interval (Yas had gone into town) I went back to Lito, got lots of drink and some snacks and had bit of rest and sorted out the camera. Walked back to Mirabello for the 2nd dive and met Manfred, who was to be my next buddy. Another short ride out this time to the south east and the gap between two islands off Ag Nik. the larger of which is Agioi Pantes and the smaller Mikronisi. Easy free descent, as there was no current and extremely good vis. Got together with my buddy as we set off nice and easy along the slopes, which were mainly rocky becoming sandier futher out.

Clusters of small and medium sized shell cases around and about. There was some good wildlife, again plenty of fish, and lots of different sponges; also starfish feeding, a large brittlestar on a sponge, and a giant red sea squirt. Manfred found a fishing rod, and I found a snorkel (a bit manky so I didn't keep it). We went along nice and slowly again, so there was good time to take a few pictures and enjoy the scenery.

Back at CUWC we all cleaned off kit - easy using the dunk tank - and I settled up. CUWCs rates were very reasonable (I paid €90 for my diving and kit hire). They were well equipped and freindly and helpful. I was delighted with a fantastic day's diving. Sadly, but quite rightly in fairness to Yasmin, that was all the scuba I would be doing - but there was plenty more snorkelling to look forward to.

Havania / Spinalonga Peninsula

Another early swim from the local beach, this time further along the coast. Felt good, and views wonderful. Sea wine dark and fishing boats at work up and down in the distance. I got over to Mirabello Hotel and went along the rocks toward the little arch. I found some new sponges, and more varied encrusting life in the small caves and crevices here. Further out, at about 7-8m, I found and a lump of stonework resembling a Corinthian capital.

Saw lots of little fish later on, lots of salp, and found a very bright red starfish. Got a few small scratches to hands somehow. Vis went a bit milky returning to the beach.

Yas was just about awake when I got back, and had the good idea that we go to Olous on the Elounda Bus. A taxi came along first and we got dropped off where the road forks down to cross the causeway over to the Spinalonga Pensinsula. Eventually we walked round to the church at the water's edge. The water was exceptionally clear, and I could see here the sunken walls - perhaps part of the old harbour - and decided to go for a swim. I took the blob with me because a bit further out there was waterskiing and inflatable towing from the opposite bay. Closer in I hooked the blob on a rock when I wanted to dive. I swam along the coast for a while around the rocks, the tilted slabby ledges were quite good underwater scenery and there were some good places for creatures. Saw lots of blennies, wrasse, and bream. Some bits of fishing gear and and a wrecked motorbike. Getting out got some sea urchin spines embedded in fingers.

We carried on up over the hill past the smiling goat, along the windy track past some very nice bays to the restored church at the top. We had a nice peaceful rest here and looked down across the bay and the beach where some of the big boats had offloaded lots of people for barbequing before walking back to one of the smaller beaches we'd passed.

Had a really good snorkel here. Interesting rocks and good scenery and fish, but fewer plants. A few bits and pieces of junk and lines/lead etc and some small tangles of line. Best thing I found was a very big conical shell in shallows. The main segment was about fist size and it was about 10". Alive? Perhaps. I took a few pictures and round and about here there were lots of the small black fish with forked tail fins. Fish with with feelers rootled in the sand. And there were plenty of fireworms and lots of gritty grey sea cucumbers.

Havania

It was amazing to be back on Crete after 21 years! It was going to be great to explore some new places, see the wildlife and snorkel in clear blue water, and get some sun. The day before in Bristol it was raining heavily as usual, there were big puddles everywhere, and it was gloomy and awful. We arrived in Heraklion, stepping out of the aircraft to be bathed in warmth and sunshine; after negotiating the airport etc, we had a pleasent ride over to Agios Nikolaos and got sorted out at our hotel the Lito - which was perfect btw.

The Lito was on a hill just above Havania beach, which as it turned out, was a pretty good place for snorkelling with some shallow reefy ledges and rocky headland close by. I woke up early, gatherered my snorkelling bits and pieces together and was in the water about 7am to make the most of quiet swim.

I went out and around the rocks to the south of Havania Beach toward the Mirabello Hotel. The visibility was great and there were lots of small colourful fish. I didn't know any of their names and I was seeing them for the first time but there were banded/saddled bream, cardinal fish, painted comber, decorated wrasse, salp, blennies, and a Moray. Amongst the various fish I still haven't identified were some tiny dark metallic blue ones. There were rounded black sponges (like the ones at home) and grey/green upright ones, and red sprawling ones in crevices and under overhangs etc,.. I also saw some red segmented worms, which I later found out were fireworms and not to be handled. There wasn't much weed as I'm used to seeing- there were patches of eel grass though, and off Havania I saw no crabs or sea anenomes.

The water very pleasant (I wore a rash vest anyway). Took pictures, some around the shallow ledges and wildlife amongst the rocks. The moray was brilliant. It was perhaps 2-3 feet long, and though seemed to be quite a young one, not as shy as I thought it would be. I was a little wary, and didn't like to go in too close and disturb it, but got a couple of pictures and reckoned he was quite friendly looking. On the way back I saw an old boat keel. I used the beach shower to rinse off my kit, and went back up the hotel refreshed and happy for breakfast.

What did we do that day? - er - after breakfast we walked into town. On the way I enquired about diving at the Crete Underwater Centre (by good fortune just a 10 min walk down the road). We enjoyed ourselves pottering around Ag Nik. and stocked up on cold drinks.

After bit of a rest back at the hotel, we got up and went down to the beach for an evening snorkel before dinner. There was a small amount of choppiness (though our location was very sheltered) and Yas felt a bit queasy swimming. She got to see some fish anyway and seemed to like these. I took some more pictures and although there was not as much variety as this morning, it very enjoyable and out in front of the rocks, say in water 4-5 m deep over the sea-bed, the visibility was at least 10 metres.

Maine and Shippen Rock, Hope Cove

Back at Hope Cove first thing Sunday morning we were delighted to discover that the wind had dropped right off and that it was still sunny. It was an early start to make the slack water required to dive the Maine, a British cargo steamer full of horsehair, goatskins, and chalk, torpedoed by a U-Boat in 1917. A classic wreck and the favourite of many I was very excited to be diving it! I was buddied with Phil; also diving were Chris and Debbie, and Terry and Peter C. Clint boathandled.

Down the shot into the current and murk, and past the fuzzy dark bulk of the bow to the sandy bottom I soon relaxed (in fact I was far more relaxed than I thought I might be on this, my deepest dive so far and a new wreck).

The Maine was superb! Reasonably intact, upright and on an even keel; she is very interesting and has lots to explore, and beautifully encrusted. There also plenty of life on her; we saw pollack, wrasse, and found a lobster. There were lots of soft corals, various sponges, plumose anemones (very nice pink and white ones), jewel anemones etc. The vis was perhaps about 10m and it was sunny and light at deck level.

Phil's tour took us from the shot to the portside of the bow along the seabed, to the holed section, then up over wreckage onto the main deck and over the framing girders. We took our time over the deck, and I took a few pictures. We arrived at some upstanding metalwork where we found a big fat conger resting amongst some pipes. We then swam through some structure to get to the stern and had a quick look around. The return was made along the starboard side, where I enjoyed swimming along the edge looking down over the sides. Where the crankshaft (?) was, near an intact bulkhead, we crossed back to the port side. Above the rear facing opening of the bow section we could see Chris's and Debbie's torches playing within as we carried on to the pointy end and over to the shot.

The ascent was smooth and steady and deco passed pleasantly in the sun watching the effervescent, and the silvery UFO-bubbles of the divers below wobble their way to the surface.

After some kit sorting, and time on the beach for a little rest and seeing the second wave launched, Peter W, Geoff H, Lucy, and Abigail, readied for a training dive from the shore. Nik and I prepared for a dive around the Shippen; and Gary and Rachel went snorkelling. Vis was very good and it was a very pleasant dive (away from the rocks and the rebounding surge). We were mainly over the intertidal zone but the scenery, with the sun over the weedy outcroppings was very nice. Shanny skipped about on the shallowest rocks, sprats shoaled, and here and there below the masses of kelp and thongweed were ballan wrasse, spiny starfish, and fan-worms. When Nik got low(er) on air - she still had enough for 2 or 3 more dives ;)! - we ascended for the short surface swim/snorkel back to the beach.

I was really 'chuffed' with three very different, very wonderful dives. The weekend was perfect - great weather, great diving, great buddies. I was very grateful to Derek for organising, and boathandlers and towers, and everyone else who made it happen, and Yasmin for that early start on Sunday!!

Bolt Tail, Hope Cove

Getting to Hope Cove village is always very nice when the weather's good and though the sea was a bit choppy because of the persistent SW wind, it was dry and sunny. The sunshine was especially welcome - we'd just had the wettest miserablest June for nearly 100 years!

A last minute alteration of the dive list saw me on a reef dive off Bolt Tail and after a wobbly ride out from the beach at Outer Hope in the 'squidgy' Gary and Alan put in, followed shortly after by Peter and myself. We went straight down through some murky and bitty patches and sent the blob up from the bottom. Then we were off, the overwhelming current took us flying over reefy outcrops and gullies. I had set my compass and was all ready to head east (as suggested by Phil who was boathandling) but this was not going to happen and I think Peter was laughing at me when I pointed at my compass. Anyway Peter taught me to go with the flow and it was great; I was the little boy out of Raymond Briggs 'The Snowman'.

Wildlife highlights were the large shiny blue cuckoo wrasse, and a type of branching yellow sponge I hadn't seen before. There were sea urchins, starfish, and pink sea-fans in some of the gullies. The craggy reef edges were very pretty and had a lot on them. Amongst the knobbly edges were hollows with plants, sponges, fan-worms, sea-squirts etc, and fish that were perfect aquariums in miniature.

Down to 100bar we started our ascent and Peter reeled up (which I know now would have been easier if I'd pulled the line as he did so). We were still going with the current and holding the 6m stop was quite tricky and we yo-yoed between 5m and 7m. On surfacing I was glad to see MIR; better suited to the presently lumpy sea around Bolt Tail. Peter was a bit sea-sick, and I too felt a bit of motion-sickness and had to remind myself to look at the horizon a few times.

It was nice to be back on solid ground, but was very satisfied with a good dive and an interesting and educational experience. I would do it again right now if I could! In the afternoon Yas and I went for a nice walk along the cliff top towards Thurlstone.